CRACK!!! Repairing a stained glass panel

The next step (for most) in making a leaded panel for a door or window is cement. This step is optional, but I find it keeps the glass from rattling when the door is open and closed. It's a must if the glass is exposed to the elements. The cement in Japan comes as a black putty. 

This is new to me as I'm used to using a cement that is wet and brushed on. As I understand, the putty is softened by the heat of my hands and applied with a putty knife. The putty is forced under the lip of the lead came. 

The excess is scraped off and the whole glass is then cleaned with whiting (a white powder that easily removes any residue left from the putty and flux (from the solder). Easy enough. 

Well, I made a mistake by applying too much pressure when I forced the putty under the lip of the lead came... CRACK!

Instead of panicking and throwing a temper tantrum, I quickly decided that this would be an ideal opportunity to relearn how to repair a stained glass panel. This mishap gave me a chance to do some copper foiling along with improving my soldering skills. Good thing! The most important benefit was the confidence it gave knowing that if a glass does break...I can fix it. Lets' get started. Get over the shock of breaking a brand new panel. If I had used a lead came with a wider lip then I could bend the lip up and install a new piece of glass, bend the lip back down, cement and clean. This was not possible with the lead came I'm using. Plan B was to remove the broken glass, cut the lip of the lead came, cut a new piece of glass, copper foil the new piece, solder the whole thing together, patina to match the existing came. Piece of cake! Make sure the back side of the panel is facing upward. You want the face side (lead came) to remain untouched. Remove the broken glass by scoring the piece and gently breaking it. 

Be careful not to damage the face side of the lead came. After the glass is removed, clean any residual cement from the lead came channel. 

Using a brand new razor blade, cut the lip of the lead came around the entire perimeter. Lead is poisonous so be sure to wear gloves. It's a good idea to scrape the lead came with the razor to leave a shiny, clean surface for the solder. After the lip is removed, use pattern paper and draw a template for the new glass. The template must fit the "compartment" for the new glass accurately without any gaps. Be patient with this step. Take your time. Remember the glass won't bend like the template.

Use the template to mark and cut the new glass. If everything goes right, the new piece will drop right in. If not, keep grinding. Use a fine grit grinder head because you want a smooth edge for the copper foil. 

Once the piece fits without any gaps, go around the perimeter one more time with the grinder and slightly remove (1.0mm) of material to allow room for the copper foil. 

Copper foil is a copper tape with a sticky back. 

Wrap the tape around the perimeter of the glass. 

I won't go into details here. Just make sure the tape is pressed firmly to the clean glass without any air pockets. Don't worry. If you make a mistake, rip the tape off and do it again. 

Once the tape is applied, place the glass in it's compartment for the last time. Take a peek on the face side and make sure no copper foil is showing. Also check on the back side and make sure the foil is not wider than the lead came. It will look strange if the solder lines are wider than the came. 

Apply flux to the came and foil and have fun soldering. Again no details about soldering...that's another post entirely. 

Clean and patina to match the came. Congratulations! You just repaired your first stained glass panel. 

On to the next panel...I drew this with a slight variation to the leaf placement. 

I'm looking forward to getting started. Once both panels are completed it will be time for installation. Please stay tuned.